TDP - Top 10 Things to KnowHiking the "W" Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park, Chileum
1. BEST TIME TO TRAVEL – Temperatures in Patagonia can be more fickle than a ________. Going at the right time can alleviate some of the huge temperature swings and offer a more enjoyable trip.
Seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are opposite to those in the Northern Hemisphere. Therefore, the best times to travel are between October – May. October – December may see heavier rainfall due to the spring-like conditions whereas January – March (high season) offers the most consistent weather and dare I say it, warmer temperatures. Of course, better weather warrants more tourists. If you want to escape the crowds and experience a harsh Patagonia winter, the parks are open year round. Traveling in low season, May – September, will come with a lot of challenges and hiking/mountaineering experience is recommended. The other great part of traveling in Patagonian summer is 18 hours of sunshine. We traveled in January and most days the sun rose around 4:30am and set just after 11pm. This offers more time for hiking and sightseeing. |
2. O, Q or W?
Named for the shape of each circuit, TDP offers three trekking routes. The O circuit circumvents the entire park, a full loop around the Cordillera del Paine and the parks more remote and less touristy backside. This route requires 7-10 days to complete (110km). The Q circuit simply adds onto the 'O'. A 17 km section between the Serano Visitors Center and Refugio Paine Grande (where the catamaran drops most guests off to begin the W or O treks. This trek is slightly more ambitious and offers a great panoramic approach to the park. (127km) The W circuit, is the most popular route, completed in 4-5 days (60km). Both circuits can be walked without carrying gear or food, between refugios or pre-set campsites. It can also be completed carrying all of your gear and setting up camp as you go. Another option, not discussed much in online forums is DAY TRIPS. Yes, you can visit the park even if you do not have reserved campsites. There are a handful of campsites sprinkled on the perimeter of the park that provide perfect jumping off points for day trips to the iconic hikes. Camping Pehoeis probably the most popular. Very reasonably priced with options to stay in tents, refugios or yurts. Buses run in the morning and evenings along the outside of the park. If you align your schedules just right, you can get a lift to either the catamaran station, Pudeto, for entry into the park via Paine Grande Campground or to the Torres Hotel, where you can begin the famous Las Torreshike. There is also a swank hotel, __hyperlink__, located on the edge of Lago Grey (Grey Lake). From here you can organize a catamaran trip to the famous Grey Glacier, ice hiking opportunities are also advertised. 3. RESERVE EARLY – Fortunately, and unfortunately, TDP is accessible to all travelers. Whether you want to stay in a nice hotel, camp, or something in between, TDP has it all. Frequent buses, catamarans, tour services and even horse rides have opened this mythical circuit to all. More people of course, means an increased need to book in advance.
Unaware of the urgency of campsite reservations, we began our site search only 6 weeks before the trip. Not nearly enough time. We snagged a few of the last camp sites available, Paine Grande and Torres Centro, but everything else was pieced together. Do yourself a favor and book sites as soon as the booking engines open for the season, usually in July or August. LINK ALL CAMPSITES: https://traveloutlandish.com/blog/book-campsites-camping-torres-del-paine/ Camp Site Options – There are three companies who provide campsites along the circuit. Vertice Patagonia and FantasticoSur are privately owned and require a fee. CONAF sites, on the other hand, are government owned and free (if you book with ample time). Sounds easy, right? One must call CONAF for a reservation, as they do not make bookings online. How’s your Spanish? No ingles on these phone calls. Vertice Patagonia and ____ both allow you to book online. The system is pretty straight forward however, if you book late like we did, you may find all your trip dates booked. We called each company begging for a site to link up our circuit and only one said they could make an exception. Again I say, do yourself favor and book early! 4. EAST to WEST....WEST to EAST – Direction is mostly irrelevant. We wanted to arrive at the base of Las Torres on my Dad’s birthday. We also wanted this iconic hike to be the pinnacle of our journey. Some would choose to do this difficult hike first, while their legs are fresh. We, however, preferred to condition our legs over our first 3 days in the park before tackling this bear of a hike.
The choice is yours of course. Either starting at Paine Grande or Refugio Grey and working east or beginning in Las Torres Campground and working west to Paine Grande or Refugio Grey. Not sure which direction to travel. Flip a coin. 5. CLOTHING IS NOT OPTIONAL: The weather is unpredictable that a sunny day can morph into an icy torrent of wind gusts that blow you off your feet with hardly any effort. Layers are not only recommended, they’re crucial. Quick-dry tops and leggings are great for spontaneous rainfalls, as is GORTEX. Pants, jackets and backpack covers should be gortex, water-resistent will hardly assist in one of TDP’s legendary rainstorms.
The trek can also be muddy and very rock so invest in breathable, trekking socks and along with a sturdy pair of hiking boots with ankle support. Be sure to break your boots in before making the trip South. Nothing worse than a foot full of blisters due to extremely rigid boots. Hiking poles are also extremely useful on those steep descents. See, “TDP Packlist” for a detailed list of gear. 6. BRING or RENT GEAR? – We did a lot of research on this before the trip. Renting gear at each place we traveled to would certainly cut down on weight between our treks. But you must ask yourself, what condition is the gear in, how heavy is it and of course, how much. Most gear rental services charge a daily rate for everything from tents to sleeping mats, trekking poles to boots, camp stoves to rain jackets. You could seriously arrive from your home country with nothing more than the clothes on your back and find everything you need to complete TDP in Puerto Natales.
7. STAGING GROUND - The staging town for trips into TDP is Puerto Natales. Here, you will find outfitter shops galore. A walking advertisement for North Face and Patagonia brand clothing gear, one can stock up on provisions here. There are multiple hostels that take all ages and walks of life. Also the explosion of AirBnB has given locals an opportunity to grow their income and offer travelers a more authentic experience.
8. GUIDE or NO GUIDE? – While in Puerto Natales, you will see guide services advertised. Don’t waste your money. Yes, you will have a local leading you on the circuit and probably offering some valuable insight into the region and geological features but if you’re only booking a guide for fear of taking a wrong turn, think again. The paths in TDP are very well marked. There is only one main path and if you deviate from it, you must have closed your eyes at some point.
10. TRAVEL TIME– Traveling to ‘el fin de mundo’ (the end of the world) takes time…a lot of time. For us, 44 hours, 4 separate plane rides and 1 bus ride just to get to Puerto Natales. Another 3 hour bus ride to get to the National Park a few days later. Don’t expect to do this trip in a week. 3-4 days can easily be consumed by travel alone.
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